IDD code: ( + 84 ) 76 / pop 240,000
This moderately prosperous town is the capital of An Giang province and does a moderate trade in agriculture, fish processing and cashew nuts. Aside from a few sites, a lively market, and perhaps a short trip along the river, there's little to detain travellers here.
Long Xuyen was once a stronghold of the Hoa Hao sect. Founded in 1939, the sect emphasises simplicity in worship and does not believe in temples or intermediaries between humans and the Supreme Being. Until 1956 the Hoa Hao had an army and constituted a major military force in this region.
The town's other claim to fame is being the birthplace of Vietnam's second president, Ton Duc Thang. There is a museum in town dedicated to Bac Ton (Uncle Ton) as well as a large statue bearing his likeness.
Information
An Giang Tourist (Tell: 841 036; 17 Ð Nguyen Van Cung; 7-11am & 1-5pm) is beside the Long Xuyen Hotel. The staff can speak some English but aren't terribly helpful. They should be able to put you in touch with a guide to Oc-Eo.
Vietcombank (Tell: 841075; 1Ð Hung Vuong; closed weekends) gives cash advances on credit cards and also exchanges travellers cheques. There's also an Incombank (Tell: 841704; 20-22 Ngo Gia Tu) near the post office. Get online at the internet cafe (81 Nguyen Hue).
Sights
LONG XUYEN CATHOLIC CHURCH
One of the largest churches in the Mekong Delta, Long Xuyen Catholic Church (7.30am - 5.30pm) is an impressive modern structure that boasts a 50m-high bell tower. It was constructed between 1966 and 1973 and can seat 1000 worshippers.
AN GIANG MUSEUM
This sleepy little museum (Bao Tang An Giang; Tell: 841 251; 77 Ð Thoai Ngoc Hau; admission free; 7.30-10.30am Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun, plus 2-4.30pm Sat & Sun) is a proud highlight of An Giang province and features photographs and personal effects of the former president. Ton Duc Thang. There are also some artefacts from the Oc-Eo site near Long Xuyen and displays that de tail the history of this region from the 1930s to the present day.
CHO MOI DISTRICT
Across the river from Long Xuyen, Cho Moi district is known for its rich groves of fruit such as bananas, durians, guava, jackfruit, longans, mangoes, mangosteens and plums.
Cho Moi district can be reached by boat from the ferry terminal at the foot of Ð Nguyen Hue.
LONG XUYEN CROCODILE FARM
For a close-up view of the reptile that once ruled the Mekong, this farm (Tell; 831 298; 44/1 A Ð Tran Hung Dao; admission 5000d; 7am-6pm) is home to thousands of crocodiles, ranging in -size from 10cm to 4m. The meat and skin of these animals is largely exported, though some Vietnamese drop-in for fresh or frozen crocodile meat (50,000d to 140,000d per kg). The farm lies 8km south of town on the road to Can Tho.
Sleeping
Thai Binh Hotel II (Tell: 847 078; fax 846 451; 4 Ð Nguyen Hue A; r 70,000-220,000d; The cheapest rooms are stifling at this older, privately run place, but the air-con quarters are spacious and airy with balconies. Friendly staff are a bonus.
Long Xuyen Hotel (Tell: 841927; 19 Ð Nguyen Van Cung; r 140,000-270,000d; This ageing classic has rooms in fair shape with shared balconies and baths with hot water.
Dong Xuyen Hotel (Tell: 942 260; Đ 9A Luong Van Cu; d 300,000-500,000d, ste 600,000d). Long Xuyen's fanciest digs are located right in the centre of town. Well-appointed rooms (satellite TV, minibar etc) are matched by facilities and services like massage and steam bath. Even the staff sparkle with friend liness and good English skills.
Eating
Besides the hotel restaurants, it's slim pickings for decent eating spots in Long Xuyen.
Hai Thue (Tell: 845 573; 245/3 Ð Luong Van Cu; mains 15,000d; breakfast, lunch & dinner) A popular choice serving up excellent and cheap Vietnamese food.
Buu loc (Tell: 844 401; 246/3 Đ Luong Van Cu; mains 15,000d; breakfast, lunch & dinner) There's no English menu, but this is another top local place for satisfying, inexpensive meals.
Hong Phat (Tell: 842 359; 242/4 Đ Luong Van Cu; mains 15,000-30,000d; breakfast, lunch & dinner) A good, value place for its simple seafood dishes.
There's good coffee and a happening scene at the riverside cafes (coffee 4000d) on Ð Pham Hong Thai.
Getting There & Away
BOAT
To get to the Long Xuyen ferry dock from Đ Pham Hong Thai, you'll need to cross Duy Tan Bridge and turn right. Passenger ferries leave from here to Cho Vam, Dong Tien, Hong Ngu, Kien Luong, Lai Vung, Rach Gia, Sa Dec and Phu Chau (Tan Chau). Boats to Rach Gia (15.000d, nine hours) leave at 6.30am and/or 8am. You can also catch boats from here to Sa Dec (10,000d, four hours) at noon.
From the An Hoa ferry terminal you can also catch boats to Cao Lanh and Sa Dec.
BUS
The buses heading from HCMC to Long Xuyen leave from the Mien Tay bus station; (around 35,000d).
Long Xuyen bus station (Ben Xe Long Xuyen; Tell: 852 125; opposite 96/3B Ð Tran Hung Dao) is at the southern end of town. Buses from Long Xuyen to Ca Mau. Can Tho, Chau Doc, Ha Tien, HCMC and Rach Gia leave from here.
CAR & MOTORBIKE
Long Xuyen is 62km from Can Tho, 126km from My Tho and 189km from HCMC.
Getting Around
The best way to get around Long Xuyen is to take a cyclo, xe dap loi (a two-wheeled wagon pulled by a bicycle) or a xe loi.
Car ferries from Long Xuyen to Cho Moi district (across the river) leave from the ferry terminal near the market every half-hour between 4am and 6.30pm.

IDD code: ( + 84 ) 780
Except for a minuscule fishing hamlet (Tran De) and an offshore island (Hon Khoai), Nam Can stakes its claim as the southernmost town in Vietnam. Few tourists come to this isolated community, which survives mainly from the shrimp industry.
At the southern tip of the delta is the Ca Mau Nature Reserve, sometimes referred to as Ngoc Hien Bird Sanctuary. It's one of the least developed and most protected parts of the Mekong Delta region. Shrimp farming is prohibited here. Access is by boat.
At the southern end of the reserve is the tiny fishing village of Tran De. A public ferry connects Tran De to Nam Can. If you are obsessed with reaching Vietnam's southern tip, take a boat from Tran De to Hon Khoai Island.
If you're looking to visit another remote spot, you can hire a boat to take you to Dat Mui (Cape Ca Mau), the southwestern tip of Vietnam. However, few people find this worthwhile.
Sleeping
Cam Ha Hotel (Tell: 877 235; r US$15; This is the only decent accommodation option in Nam Can. so you'll have little choice unless you plan on camping.
Getting There & Away
A road connecting Ca Mau to Nam Can is shown on most maps of Vietnam, but it's little more than wishful thinking. Basically, it's a muddy track that's underwater most of the time, though some have attempted it by motorbike.
The trip to Nam Can from Ca Mau is best done by speedboat (around 40,000d, one hour). These boats depart from Ferry Pier Can Ganh Hao and Ferry Pier B in Ca Mau.

Ancient City of Oc-Eo
During the 1st to 6th centuries AD, when southern Vietnam, much of southern Cambodia and the Malay peninsula were ruled by Funan, the Indian-influenced empire, Oc-Eo was a major trading city. Much of what is known about the Funan empire, which reached its height during the 5th century AD, comes from contemporary Chinese sources and the excavations at Oc-Eo. The excavations have uncovered evidence of contact between Oc-Eo and what is now Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia, as well as Persia and the Roman Empire.
An elaborate system of canals around Oc-Eo was once used for both irrigation and transportation, prompting Chinese travellers of the time to write about 'sailing across Funan' on their way to the Malay peninsula. Most of the buildings of Oc-Eo were built on piles and pieces of these structures indicate the high degree of refinement achieved by Funanese civilisation. Artefacts found at Oc-Eo are on display in HCMC at the History Museum and Fine Arts Museum, in Hanoi at the History Museum and in Long Xuyen at the An Giang Museum.
Though there is in fact very little to see here, the remains of Oc-Eo are not far from Long Xuyen. Inquire at An Giang Tourist for guides and travel information. Oc-Eo is most accessible during the dry season. Special permission may be required to visit (for more information).

U-Minh Forest
The town of Ca Mau borders the U Minh Forest, a huge mangrove forest covering 1000 sq km of Ca Mau and Kien Giang provinces. Local people use certain species of mangrove as a source of timber, charcoal, thatch and tannin. When the mangroves flower, bees feed on the blossoms, providing both honey and wax. The area is an important habitat for waterfowl.
The U-Minh Forest, which is the largest mangrove forest in the world outside of the Amazon basin, was a favourite hideout for the VC during the American War. US patrol boats were frequently ambushed here and the VC regularly planted mines in the canals. The Americans responded with chemical defoliation, which made their enemy more visible while doing enormous damage to the for ests. Replanting efforts at first failed because the soil was so toxic, but gradually the heavy rainfall has washed the dioxin out to sea and the forest is returning. Many eucalyptus trees have also been planted here because they have proved to be relatively resistant to dioxin.
Unfortunately the mangrove forests are being further damaged by clearing for shrimp-farming ponds, charcoal production and woodchipping. The government has tned to limit these activities, but the conflict between nature and humans continues. The conflict will probably gel worse before it gets better, because Vietnam's population is still growing rapidly.
The area is known for its birdlife, but these creatures have also taken a beating. Nevertheless, ornithologists will derive much joy from taking boat trips around Ca Mau - though the flocks of birds aren't nearly as ubiquitous as the swarms of mosquitoes.
Ca Mau Tourist offers all-day tours of the forest by boat. It costs US$135 per boat (maximum 10 people), though bargaining is possible. You can also talk to the locals down at Ferry Pier A to see if you can find a better deal.
Bird Sanctuary
The Bird Sanctuary (Vuon Chim; admission 50,000d; dawn-dusk) is about 45km southeast of Ca Mau. Storks are the largest and most easily spotted birds here, making their nests in the tall trees. Remember that birds will be birds - they don't like humans to get too close and they leave their nests early in the morning in search of food.
Ca Mau Tourist offers a full-day tour by boat to the sanctuary for US$120 (one to 10 people).

IDD code: ( + 84 ) 76 / pop 102,000
Perched on the banks of the Bassac River, Chau Doc is a pleasant town near the Cam-bodian border with sizable Chinese, Cham and Khmer communities. Its cultural diversity - apparent in the mosques, temples, churches and nearby pilgrimage sites - makes it a fascinating place to explore even if you aren't headed to Cambodia. Taking a boat trip to the Cham communities across the river is another highlight, though its addictive market and peaceful waterfront make fine backdrops to a few days of relaxing before heading out.
Owing to the popular river crossing between Vietnam and Cambodia, many travellers pass through Chau Doc.
information
There's internet service (per hr 4000d; 7am-9pm) in the courtyard of Chau Doc's main post office (Tell: 869 200; 2 Ð Le Loi). Foreign currency can be exchanged at Incombank (Tell: 866 497; 68-70 Nguyen Huu Canh).
Though not officially a tourist office, there’s a travel information desk at Vinh Phuoc Hotel (right) where objective, pressure-free travel advice is dispensed. Tours and onward travel arrangements are sold at reasonable prices. Check here first for up-to-date reports on hydrofoils to Phu Quoc Island, border cross ing information, slow cargo boats and bus schedules.
Other agencies where you can buy boat transport to Phnom Penh and book half- and full-day boating trips on the Mekong include Mekong Tours (Tell: 868 222;  14 Ð Nguyen Huu Canh) and Delta Adventure (Tell: 563 810; 53 Đ Ie Loi).
Sights
CHAU PHU TEMPLE
In 1926 the Chau Phu Temple (Dinh Than Chau Phu; cnr Ð Nguyen Van Thoai & Ð Gia Long) was built to worship the Nguyen dynasty official Thoai Ngoc Hau, who is buried at Sam Mountain. The structure is decorated with both Vietnamese and Chinese motifs. Inside are funeral tablets bearing the names of the deceased and some biographical information about them.
MOSQUES
Domed and arched Chau Giang Mosque, in the hamlet of Chau Giang, serves the local Chain Muslims. To get there, take the car ferry from Chau Giang ferry landing in Chau Doc across the Hau Giang River. From the ferry landing, walk away from the river for 30m, turn left and walk 50m.
The Mubarak Mosque (Thanh Duong hoi Giao), where children study the Koran in Arabic script, is also on the river bank of posite Chau Doc. Visitors are permitted, but you should avoid entering during the calls to prayer (five times daily) unless you are a Muslim.
There are other small mosques in the Chau Doc area. They are accessible by boat, hut you'll need a local guide to find them all.
FLOATING HOUSES
These houses, whose floats consist of empty metal drums, are both a place to live and a livelihood for their residents. Under each house, fish are raised in suspended metal nets: the fish flourish in their natural river habitat; the family can feed them whatever scraps are handy; and catching the fish re quires less exertion than fishing. You can find these houses floating around Chau Doc and get a close-up by hiring a boat (but please be respectful of their privacy). To learn more about the workings of these fish cages.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Vinh Phuoc Hotel (Tell; 866 242; 12 Ð Quang Trung; r US$6-15; A good budget deal, this place is run by an amiable Brit who is an excellent source of local travel information. There's a good in-house restaurant serving Vietnamese and Western food (mains around 30,000d).
Ngoc Phu Hotel (Tell: 866 484; 17 Ð Doc Phu Thu; r 90,000-150,000d; Even the fan rooms at this large, liveable place have hot water, TV and fridge, The staff here are particularly cheery and help ful. Under renovation at the time of writing, Ngoc Phu may raise rates in coming years.
Thuan Loi Hotel (Tell: 866134; 18 Ð Tran Hung Dao; r100,000-190,000d; Over looking the riverside, this pleasant place with communal terrace has friendly staff and a relaxed atmosphere. Fan rooms are very basic, with cold-water bathrooms. Air-conditioned rooms are bright and airy.
Delta Adventure Inn (Nha Khach Long Chau; ÐT: 861 249; r 120,000-240,000d; This cosy terracotta-tiled compound sits amid the rice paddies about 4km from Chau Doc. The views of Sam Mountain are lovely from the island cafe-restaurant on the grounds.
Hoa Mai Hotel (Tell: 867 608; 24/4 Ð Khom Chau Thoi 2; r US$10; 1;This newish place has an elegant facade and clean, spacious rooms opening onto a shared balcony. It's in a quiet setting southwest of the centre.
Song Sao Hotel (Tell: 561 777; 12-13 Đ Nguyen Huu Canh; r US$11-16; Song Sao has simple, tidy rooms with wood furniture. Some are small and lack natural light; others have balconies.
Trung Nguyen Hotel (Tell: 866158; 86 Đ Bach Dang; rUS$12-17; This handsome, polished place has bright and airy rooms, each with a balcony. There's friendly, helpful management, and breakfast is included.
Tai Ngan Hotel (Tell: 866435; 11 Ð Nguyen Huu Canh; r150,000- 180,000d). A good-value hotel for most of the rooms. The best are spacious and have a balcony overlooking the plaza.
Hang Chau 2 Hotel (Tell: 868 891; 10 Ð Nguyen Van Thoai; r 150,000-280,000d). Spacious, comfortably furnished rooms have nice touches - balconies or leather armchairs. while the 'VIP' room has wood floors.
TOP END
Victoria Chau Doc Hotel (Tell: 865 010; 32 Ð Le Loi; r US$115-196; internet rates US$92-144) Perched on the riverside, the Victoria is the swishest place in town. All rooms have wood floors, bathtubs and gorgeous decor. The hotel's Bassac Restaurant is superb and the top-floor massage salon offers the best river views around.
Eating
RESTAURANTS
Chau Doc has some excellent restaurants on offer.
Bay Bong (Tell: 867 271; 22 Ð Thuong Dang Ie; mains 35,000-45,000d; lunch & dinner) This place specialises in hotpots and soups, as well as fresh fish dishes. Try the ca kho to (stewed fish in a clay pot) or canh chua (sweet-and-sour soup).
Mekong (Tell: 867 381; 41 Ð Le Loi; mains 35,000-45,000d; lunch & dinner) Just across the road from the Victoria Chau Doc Hotel, Mekong is a popular spot for inexpensive meals. You can dine outdoors in front of an ageing villa.
Bassac Restaurant (Tell: 865 010; 32 Ð Le Loi; mains US$8-14; 6-11 am & 6-11pm) Sophisticated dining is paired with a relaxed colonial ambience at Bassac, located inside the Victoria Chau Doc Hotel. It also has good snack food served at the hotel's poolside Bamboo Bar.
Lam Hung Ky (Tell: 866 745; 71 Ð Chi Lang; mains 40,000d; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This joint serves up good Chinese and Vietnamese food, with misleadingly unappetising menu items like 'instant boiled assorted meats’.
Hong Phat (Tell: 866 950; 77 Ð Chi Lang; mains 40,000d; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Similar in standard and fare to Lam Hung Ky.
Other options:
Mi Vach Tuong (Ð Thu Khoa Nghia; noodles 7000d; breakfast & dinner) Beside the local basketball court, this simple spot is a good choke for noodle soups. Thanh Tinh (Tell: 865 064; 13 Ð Quang Trung; mains 15.000d; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Great vegetarian food at the well-known place whose name means 'to calm the body down'.
Truong Van (Tell: 866 567; 15 Ð Quang Trung; mains 15,000d; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Good Vietnamese food at decent prices.
QUICK EATS
To sample the best sinh to (fruit shakes) in town, look out for the stalls on the corner of Ð Phan Van Vang and Ð Nguyen Van Thoai.
At night, you can also try a variety of cool dessert che (dessert soups) at che stalls on Đ Bach Dang, next to the pagoda.
The Chau Doc Covered Market (Đ Bach Dang) has excellent Vietnamese food (plates 4000d to 10,000d).
Drinking & Entertainment
Chau Doc is a fairly sleepy town and tends to shut down early.
Le Jarai (32 Đ Le Loi; 4-11 pm most nights) Moored on the river behind the Victoria Hotel, this (nonsailing) boat makes a pleasant setting for a cocktail.
Gio Dong (Tell: 563310; QL 91 Quoc lo) An at-tractive waterside spot 2km out of town on the way to Sam Mountain, Gio Drong is an idyllic spot for a drink and is popular with couples.
A dance hall that's popular with the locals, An Tuong 2 (admission 20,000d; 8-11pm, closed Mon & Wed), is nearby. The entry fee includes one drink.
The inviting Lobby Bar in the Victoria Chau Doc Hotel has tropical French-colonial allure, a large drink menu and a pool table.
Getting There & Away
BOAT
No-frills cargo boats run twice weekly between Chau Doc and Ha Tien via the Vinh Te Canal (150,000d, eight to 12 hours), which straddles the Cambodian border; it's an interesting 95km trip. Departures are at 5am from a tiny pier (near 60 Ð Trung Hung Dao).
Cargo boats also travel to/from Vinh Long. For information on travelling into Cambodia .
BUS
The buses from HCMC to Chau Doc leave from the Mien Tay bus station; the express bus can make the run in six hours and costs around 84,000d.
The Chau Doc bus station (Ben Xe Chau Doc) is east of town towards Long Xuyen Buses from Chau Doc leave here for Rach Gia (40.000d, four hours), Ca Mau, Can The, Ha Tien, Long Xuyen, My Tho, HCMC, Soc Trang and Tra Vinh.
CAR & MOTORBIKE
By road, Chau Doc is approximately 117km from Can Tho, 181km from My Tho and 245km from HCMC.
The Chau Doc-Ha Tien road is 100km in length and is in miserable shape, but improve ments were underway at research time. As you approach Ha Tien, the land turns into a mangrove forest that is infertile and almost uninhabited.
This area is considered reasonably safe during the day, but it's not advisable to be out here after dark due to the risk of robbery in this remote, unlit area.
The drive takes about three hours and it's possible to visit Ba Chuc and Tup Duc en route. If you don't plan to drive yourself, xe om drivers typically charge about US$15.
FISH FARMING & BIO-FUEL
Fish farming constitutes around 20% of Vietnam's total seafood output and is widely practised in An Giang province, in the region near the Cambodian border. The highest concentration of 'floating houses' with fish cages can be observed on the banks of the Bassac River in Chau DOC, near its confluence with the mighty Mekong.
The fish farmed here are two members of the Asian catfish family, basa (Pangasius bocourti) and tra (P hypophthalmus). It is interesting to note that even with two tides a day here, there is no salt water in the river. Around 18,000 tonnes of fish are exported annually, primarily to European and American markets (as well as Australia and Japan), in the form of frozen white fish fillets.
The two-step production cyclo starts with capturing fish eggs from the wild, followed by raising the fish to a marketable size - usually about 1kg. Fish are fed on a kind of dough made by the farmers from cereal, vegetables and fish scraps. The largest cage measures 2000 cubic metres and can produce up to 400 tonnes of raw fish in each 10-month production cycle.
One of the more interesting developments affecting fish-farming was announced in 2006, when Saigon Petrol and An Giang Fisheries Import-Export Company (Agifish) agreed to set up a joint venture to produce bio-fuel from the fat of the tra and basa catfish. Some 400,000 tonnes of the two fish are consumed annually in the Mekong River provinces, and if some of its by-products could be utilised the effects would be groundbreaking. One kilogram of fish fat can yield 1L of bio-diesel fuel, according to one project specialist, meaning some 60,000 tonnes of bio-diesel fuel could be made yearly if all the tra and basa fat could be utilised from the processing plants in the region. Agifish, which sets its initial projections at producing 10,000 tonnes a year, claims the bio-fuel will be more efficient than diesel, that it's nontoxic and will generate far less exhaust. After the factory is up and running (it's slated to be built near Can Tho), Agifish claims it will be a boon to the local economy, to local fish farmers who will earn more money, and even to the environment. Those who've gotten a whiff of nuoc mam (fish sauce) and thought, 'you can power a dump truck on this stuff aren't far off the mark.
Getting Around
Xe loi can be hired around town tor a few thousand dong.
Boats to Chau Giang district (across the Hau Giang River) leave from two docks: vehicle ferries depart from Chau Giang ferry Sanding (Ben Pha Chau Giang), opposite 419 Đ Le Loi; smaller, more frequent boats leave from Phu Hiep ferry landing (Ben Pha FB Phu Hiep), a little further south.
Vehicle ferries to Con Tien Island depart from the Con Tien ferry landing (Ben Pha Con Tien) at the river end of Ð Thuong Dang Le; you can catch boats to Chau Giang and Phu Chau (Tan Chau) from the Ben Do Quoc Doanh ferry landing on Ð Gia Long, opposite the post office.
Private boats (30,000d for a few hours), which are rowed standing up, can be hired from either of these spots, and are highly recommended for seeing the floating houses and visiting nearby Chain minority villages and mosques. Motorboats (50,000d per hour) can be hired in the same area.
Prices for all of the public ferries (per person 500d. motorbike or bicycle 1000d) double at night; bicycles or motorbikes require their own ticket.

IDD code: ( + 84 ) 780 / pop 176,000
Built on the swampy shores of the Ganh Hao River, Ca Mau is the capital and largest city in Ca Mau province, which was devastated by Typhoon Linda in 1997. It occupies the southern tip of the Mekong Delta - a wasteland for centuries, the area was first cultivated in the late 17th century. The population of Ca Mau includes many ethnic Khmers.
Owing to the boggy terrain, this area has the lowest population density in southern Vietnam. Ca Mau lies in the middle of Vietnam's largest swamp and is known for its powerful mosquitoes.
Ca Mau has developed rapidly in recent years, but the actual town itself is rather dull. The main attractions here are the nearby swamps and forests, which can be easily explored by boat. Bird-watchers and aspiring botanists are reportedly enthralled with the area for its stork-sighting opportunities and swamp ecology. Consult Ca Mau Tourist before undertaking trips to these outlying attractions.
Information
Interesting boat trips - two days and two nights to Nam Can, Dat Mui (Cape Ca Mau), the Da Bac Islands and the U-Minh Forest -can be organised at Ca Mau Tourist (Cong Ty Du lich Minh Hai; Tell: 831238; 3-5 Ð Ly Bon; 8-11am & 1-5pm). Other services available here include foreign-currency exchange, car and boat rentals and visa extensions.
Near the post office, Incombank (Tell: 838 677; 94 Ð Ly Thuong Kiet) offers foreign-currency exchange and cash advances. There's an ATM located inside the Anh Nguyet Hotel.
In an emergency, seek medical help at Ca Mau Hospital (Benh Vien Ca Mau; 831015;Ð Ly Thuong Kiet).
Sights
CA MAU MARKET
This is a wholesale market (6am-6pm) and not really a place for people to shop. The animal life on display - such as fish and turtles - is cleaned, packed into crates, frozen and sent to HCMC by truck. It's an interesting place to wander around - it certainly bears little resem blance to the supermarkets at home. However, animal rights advocates will not be pleased.
There's also a floating market ( 6am-mid-afternoon) here.
CAO DAI TEMPLE
Though not as large as the one in Tay Ninh, the Cao Dai Temple (Ð Phan Ngoc Hien) is still an impressive place and it's staffed by friendly monks. The temple was built in 1966 and seems to be fairly active.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Than Son Hotel (Tell: 815 825; 23 Ð Phan Ngoc Hien; r 80,000-230,000d; This slender five-storey hotel has clean, nicely maintained rooms with decent-sized windows.
Ca Mau Hotel (Tell: 831 165; fax 835 075; 20 Ð Phan Ngoc Hien; r 120,000-220,000d; Small, trim, well-outfitted rooms here have bathrooms with tubs. Rates include breakfast.
Quoc Nam Hotel (Tell: 827 281; 23 Ð Phan Boi Chau, r 120,000-250,000d;This is a friendly, low-key affair with clean, simple, pleasant rooms some brighter than others. Its top-floor restaurant overlooks the market.
Ca Mau Trade Union Hotel (Tell: 825 037; fax 830 873; 9 Ð luu Tan Tai; r 130,000-300,000d; Almost opposite the Cao Dai Temple, this hotel has a range of rooms from small, dingy and dark to spacious, bright and clean.
Song Ngoc Hotel (Tell: 817 303; 28 Ð Hung Vuong; r 150,000-250,000d; Situated on a busy road. Song Ngoc is a newish place with small, clean rooms with kitschy bedspreads. There's a lift.
MIDRANGE
Phuong Nam Hotel (Tell: 831752; fax 834 402; 91 Ð Phan Dinh Phung; r/ste 170,000/240,000d; Another good-value place, Phuong Nam is clean and pleasantly furnished. Some rooms have balconies.
QuocTe Hotel (International Hotel; Tell: 826 745; 179 Ð Phan Ngoc Hien; r 200,000- 700,000d; Boasting a lift, a restaurant and massage service, the Quoc Te is a solid midrange choice. The priciest rooms have big views of the city; breakfast buffet is included.
Anh Nguyet Hotel (Tell: 567666; 207 Ð Phan Ngoc Hien; r US$19-69; This top midrange option has comfortable, carpeted rooms with trim furnishings, colourful bed spreads and big windows.
Eating
Ca Mau's speciality is shrimp, which are raised in ponds and mangrove forests. Oddly, Ca Mau's best restaurants are in a row on the north end of town.
Pho Xua (Tell: 829 830; 126 Ð Phan Ngoc Hien; mains 40,000-50,000d) Featuring many shrimp and fish dishes, Pho Xua is a snazzy place with lush landscaping.
Thanh Truc (Tell: 820 021; 126 Ð Phan Ngoc Hien; mains 45,000d) Next door to Pho Xua, this is a good place for hot pot and grilled meat dishes.
There is a cluster of small, cheap roadside restaurants on Ð Ly Bon, at the entrance to the street market. The friendly outdoor restaurant in the Ca Mau Trade Union Hotel is also a good bet.
Getting There & Away
BOAT
Ca Mau has several piers, where you can catch boats around the region. Three to four hydro foils a day travel between Ca Mau and Rach Gia (the boat docks in Rach Soi, about 10km from Rach Gia). This departs from Ferry Pier Can Ganh Hao daily between 7.30am and 1pm (90,000d, three hours). This pier is also where you can catch a speedboat south to Nam Can (one daily, one hour, 40,000d). Ferry Pier B also has departures to Nam Can (one daily, one hour, 40,000d).
Boats to Can Tho (three daily, three to four hours, 97,000d), with a stop in Phung Hiep, depart from Cong Ca Mau pier (Ð Quang Trung), 3km east of town.
Also popular are the (slow) boats to U-Minh Forest (opposite). These depart from Ferry Pier A (two hours, 25,000d). For a guided tour, it's best to inquire at the tourist office.
BUS
The buses from HCMC to Ca Mau leave from Mien Tay bus station. The trip takes 11 hours by regular bus and eight hours by express bus (around 115,000d). There are several daily express buses to HCMC leaving between 5am and 10.30am. Regular daily buses also connect to other towns in the region, including Bac Lieu (24,000d) and Can Tho (60,000d).
The Ca Mau bus station is 2.5km from the centre of town, along Hwy 1 towards HCMC.
CAR & MOTORBIKE
Ca Mau is the end of the line for Hwy 1; it's the southernmost point in Vietnam that's accessible by car and bus. Drivers who boldly attempt to drive on the 'highway' south of Ca Mau will soon find their vehicles sinking into a quagmire of mud and mangroves.
Ca Mau is 178km from Can Tho (three-hours) and 347km from HCMC (eight hours).
Getting Around
There are plenty of water taxis along the canal at the back of Ca Mau Market. For longer trips up river, larger longboats collect at the cluster of jetties just outside the market area. You can either join the throngs of passengers going downriver or hire the whole boat for about 50,000d an hour.

Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary
Five kilometres south of town, Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary (Vuon Chim Bac Lieu; Tell: 835 991; admission 40,000d; 7.30am-5pm) is notable for its 50-odd species of bird, including a large population of graceful white herons. This is one of the most interesting sights in the Mekong Delta and is surprisingly popular with Vietnamese tourists. Foreign visitors are rare. probably because Bac Lieu is so out-of-the-way.
Whether or not you see any birds depends on what time of year you visit. Bird populations are at their peak in the rainy season -approximately May to October. The birds hang around to nest until about January, then fly off in search of greener pastures. There are basically no birds here from February until the rainy season begins again.
The drive is only 5km but the road is in bad shape. The rest of the trek is through dense (and often muddy) jungle. Bring plenty of repellent, good shoes, water and binoculars.
Pay the admission fee when you reach the entrance of the bird sanctuary. You can (and should) hire a guide here - you'll probably get lost without one. The guides aren't supposed to take any money, so tip them (US$2 is enough) discreetly; most guides do not speak English. Transport and guides can also be arranged at the Bac Lieu tourist office (see opposite), but hiring a guide there will cost you around US$10 for the day.
Bac Lieu Beach
The same road leading to the Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary terminates 10km from Bac Lieu at this beach (Bai Bien Bac Lieu). Don't expect white sand - it's all hard-packed Mekong Delta mud. Quite a few shellfish and other slimy things crawl around where the muck meets the sea. Tide pool enthusiasts might be impressed. Locals may be willing to take you for a walk on the tidal flats where they harvest oysters. There's a simple restaurant on the beach for local seafood dishes; another restaurant is scheduled to open there in 2007.
Moi Hoa Binh Pagoda
This Khmer pagoda (Chua Moi Hoa Binh or Se Rey Vongsa) is 13km south of Bac Lieu along Hwy 1 (look to your left while driving to Ca Mau).
The pagoda is uniquely designed and chances are good that the monastery's enormous tower will catch your eye even if you're not looking for it. As pagodas in Vietnam go, it's relatively new, having first been built in 1952. The tower was added in 1990 and is used to store the bones of the deceased. There is a large and impressive meeting hall in front of the tower.
Most Khmer people in the area head for monastery schools in Soc Trang in order to receive a Khmer education. Apart from the small contingent of student monks, very few students study at the Moi Hoa Binh Pagoda.

Phu Chau (Tan Chau) District
Traditional silk making has brought fame to Phu Chau (Tan Chau) district across southern Vietnam. The market in Phu Chau has a selection of competitively priced Thai and Cambodian goods.
To get to Phu Chau district from Chau Doc, take a boat across the Hau Giang River from the Phu Hiep ferry landing, then catch a ride on the back of xe om (about 15,000d) for the 18km trip to Phu Chau district.
Sam Mountain
There are dozens of pagodas and temples, many of them set in caves, around Sam Moun-tain (Nui Sam), which is about 6km southwest of Chau Doc via Ð Bao Ho Thoai. The Chinese influence is obvious and Sam Mountain is a favourite spot for ethnic Chinese (both pilgrims from Vietnam and abroad).
Climbing the peak is a highlight of a visit to Sam Mountain. The views from the top are excellent (weather permitting) and you can gaze over Cambodia. There's a military outpost on the summit, a legacy of the days when the Khmer Rouge made cross-border raids and massacred Vietnamese civilians.
Walking down is easier than walking up, so if you want to cheat, have a motorbike take you to the summit. The road to the top is on the east side of the mountain. You can walk down along a peaceful, traffic-free trail on the north side, which will bring you to the main temple area. The summit road has been decorated with amusement-park ceramic dinosaurs and the like. But there are also some small shrines and pavilions, which add a bit of charm and also remind you that this is indeed Vietnam and not Disneyland.
TAY AN PAGODA
This pagoda (Chua Tay An) is renowned for the fine carving of its hundreds of religious figures, most of which are made of wood. Aspects of the building's architecture reflect Hindu and Islamic influences. The first chief monk of Tay An Pagoda (founded in 1847) came from Giac Lam Pagoda in Saigon. Tay An was last rebuilt in 1958.
The main gate is of traditional Vietnamese design. Above the roof are figures of lions and two dragons fighting for possession of pearls, chrysanthemums, apricot trees and lotus blossoms. Nearby is a statue of Quan Am Thi Kinh, the Guardian Spirit of Mother and Child.
In front of the pagoda are statues of a black elephant with two tusks and a while elephant with six tusks. Around the pagoda are monks' tombs. Inside are Buddha statues adorned with psychedelic disco lights.
TEMPLE OF LADY XU
Founded in the 1820s, the Temple of Lady Xu (Mieu Ba Chua Xu) faces Sam Mountain, not far from Tay An Pagoda. The first building here was made of bamboo and leaves; the last reconstruction took place in 1972.
According to legend, the statue of Lady Xu used to stand at the summit of Sam Mountain. In the early 19th century Siamese troops invaded the area and, impressed with the statue, decided to take it back to Thailand. But as they carried the statue down the hill, it became heavier and heavier, and they were forced to abandon it by the side of thepath.
BORDER CROSSING: VINH XUONG-KAAM SAMNOR
One of the most enjoyable ways of entering Cambodia is via this crossing located just west of Chau Doc along the Mekong River. If coming from Cambodia, get a visa. if exiting, Cambodian visas are available on arrival, but minor overcharging is common.
Numerous agencies in Chau Doc sell boat tickets taking you from Chau Doc to Phnom Penh via the Vinh Xuong border. Slow boats for the trip cost around US$8 to US$10 and take eight hours (leaving around 8am and arriving in Phnom Penh at 4pm).
There are several companies offering faster boats between Chau Doc and Phnom Penh. Hang Chau (Phnom Penh; Tell: 012-883 542) departs Chau Doc at 7am and Phnom Penh at 12 noon and costs US$15. The more upmarket Blue Cruiser (Phnom Penh; Tell: 023 990 441; Chau Doc Tell: 091-401622) pulls out at 8.30am and at 1.30pm respectively, costing US$35. It takes about four hours in eluding a slow border check. More expensive again is the Victoria Hotels express boat, which runs from the Victoria Chau Doc Hotel to Phnom Penh At US$75 per person, it tends to be exclusive to Victoria hotel guests.
Some adventurous travellers like to plot their own course. Catch a minibus from Chau Doc to the border at Vinh Xuong (US$1, one hour). The border posts here are some way apart so hire a moto (US$1) to carry you from building to building to deal with the lengthy bureaucracy. There are separate offices for immigration and customs on both sides of the border, so it can end up taking as much as an hour. Luggage has to be x-rayed on the Vietnamese side of the border. Once officially in Cambodia at Kaam Samnor, arrange a speedboat to Neak Luong (US$2.50 per person, US$15 for the boat, one hour). Once in Neak Luong, change to a local bus (4500r, regular departures) to Phnom Penh, which will terminate at the Central Market.
One day some villagers who were cutting wood came upon the statue and decided to bring it back to their village in order to build a temple for it; but it weighed too much for them to budge. Suddenly, there appeared a girl who, possessed by a spirit, declared her self to be Lady Xu. She announced to them that 40 virgins were to be brought and that they would be able to transport the statue down the mountainside. The 40 virgins were then summoned and carried the statue down the slope, but when they reached the plain, it became too heavy and they had to set it down. The people concluded that the site where the virgins halted had been selected by Lady Xu for the temple construction and it's here that the Temple of Lady Xu stands to this day.
Offerings of roast whole pigs are frequently made here, providing an interesting photo opportunity. The temple's most important festival is held from the 23rd to the 26th day of the fourth lunar month. During this time, pilgrims flock here, sleeping on mats in the large rooms of the two-storey resthouse next to the temple.
TOMB OF THOAI NGOC HAU
A high-ranking official, Thoai Ngoc Hau (1761-1829) served the Nguyen Lords and, later, the Nguyen dynasty. In early 1829, Thoai Ngoc Hau ordered that a tomb be constructed for himself at the foot of Sam Mountain. The site he chose is not far from Tay An Pagoda.
The steps are made of red 'beehive' stone (da ong) brought from the southeastern part of Vietnam. In the middle of the platform is the tomb of Thoai Ngoc Hau and those of his wives, Chau Thi Te and Truong Thi Miet. Nearby are several dozen other tombs where his officials are buried.
CAVERN PAGODA
The Cavern Pagoda (Chua Hang, also known as Phuoc Dien Tu) is about halfway up the western side of Sam Mountain. The lower part of the pagoda includes monks' quarters and two hexagonal tombs in which the founder of the pagoda, a female tailor named Le Thi Tho, and a former head monk, Thich Hue Thien, are buried.
The upper section has two parts: the main sanctuary, in which there are statues of A Di Da (the Buddha of the Past) and Thich Ca Buddha (Sakyamuni, the Historical Buddha); and the cavern. At the back of the cave behind the sanctuary building is a shrine dedicated to Quan The Am Bo Tat.
According to legend, Le Thi Tho came from Tay An Pagoda to this site half a century ago to lead a quiet, meditative life. When she arrived, she found two enormous snakes, one white and the other dark green. Le Thi Tho soon converted the snakes, which thereafter led pious lives. Upon her death, the snakes disappeared.
Sleeping & Eating
For details on the Delta Adventure Inn between Chau Doc and Sam Mountain, see.
Ben Da MtSam Resort Tell: 076-861745; Quoc Lo 91; r 217,000-350,000d; This large complex has pleasant, attractive rooms, some of which overlook a lily-filled water garden. You'll find the standard amenities, plus steam bath, massage and sauna. Breakfast is included and there's an outdoor restaurant.
Long Bo (Tell: 076-861 479; Khom Vinh Tay1; mains 60,000d) Well worth the trek out here, this excellent grilled-meat restaurant is among Chau Doc's gems. A favourite dish is bo lui xa. which is beef wrapped around lemon-grass. You cook it yourself on the hot coals brought to your table. It's 1km west of Lady Xu Temple.

IDD code: ( + 84 ) 781 / pop 136,000
The capital of southern Bac Lieu province, Bac Lieu is 280km from HCMQ Of the 800,000 people living in the province, about 8% are of Chinese or Cambodian origin.
The town has a few elegant but forlorn French colonial buildings, like the impressive Fop House (now used as a community sports centre), but not much else.
Farming is a difficult occupation in this region because of saltwater intrusion, and the province is better known for its healthy longan orchards. In addition to this, the enterprising locals eke out a living from fishing, oyster collection and shrimp farming, as well as salt production (obtained from evaporating saltwater ponds that form immense salt flats).
Most foreigners use Bac Lieu as a spring board to reach the outstanding bird sanctuary out of town.
Information
The helpful Bac Lieu tourist office (Tell: 824 272; fax 824 273; 2 Ð Hoang Van Thu; 7-11am & 1-5pm) is next to the Bac Lieu Hotel. Surprisingly, there's often someone on hand who speaks English, Pick up a town map (a rough photocopy) and inquire about trips to the Bird Sanctuary (right) here.
The post office (Tell: 824 242; 20 Ð Tran Phu) is off the main roundabout downtown; up the same street is Sacombank (Tell: 932 200; fax 932 201; B2 Ð Tran Phu), which can exchange currency.
Sleeping
In addition to those listed below, there are numerous inexpensive guesthouses that dot the road into town (from Soc Trang), when rooms cost around US$10.
Bac Lieu Guest House (Tell: 823 815; 8 Ð Ly Tu Trong;r 130,000; One of the town's cheapies, this has small, worn rooms that lack natural light. There's a restaurant below.
Bac Lieu Hotel (Tell: 822 437; fax 823 655; 4 Ð Hoang Van Thu;r US$16-25; Near the river, this is a worn but serviceable option with polished tile floors and trim furnishings. Better rooms have bat conies and tubs. Next door, a newer Bac Lieu Hotel was under construction in 2006.
Cong Tu Hotel (Tell: 953 304; fax 953111; 13 Ð Dien Bien Phu; r US$16-30; Just west (50m) of the Bac Lieu Hotel, Cong Tu is a scruffy old colonial gem that's well worn but still popular with Vietnamese. The best rooms have a balcony and are spacious with tall ceilings (but sad carpeting).
Hoang Cung Hotel ( Tell: 823 362; 1B/5 Ð Tran Phu; r 80,000-200,000d; About 1km from the roundabout in the direction of Soc Trang (across from the Khmer pagoda gate), this hotel offers clean and comfortable rooms, the best with balconies overlooking a large palm in back.
Eating
Khai Ky (Tell: 820 312; 80 Ð Hai Ba Trung; mains 10,000d; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Across the road from the Bac Lieu Hotel, this tiny restaurant serves excellent bowls of noodle soup.
Bac Lieu 2 (Tell: 824 951; 89/3 Ð Tran Phu Lo 1; mains 30,000d; breakfast, lunch & dinner) About 700m north of the roundabout (en route to Soc Trang), this is a local favourite serving decent dishes in a clean environment.
Among hotel restaurants, the best is at the Cong Tu Hotel (Ð Dien Bien Phu; mains 20,000-60,000d; breakfast, lunch & dinner), with traditional mains and a pleasant outdoor setting.
Getting There & Around
The bus station is on the main road into town, 1 km west of the centre. From here you can catch regular buses to Ho Chi Minh City (80,000d), Ca Mau (25,000d) and Soc Trang (25,000d).
For trips to outlying areas (including the Bird Sanctuary), you can arrange a taxi through the Bac Lieu tourist office or by calling Tell: 922 922. Rates are 40,000d for the first 2 km, and 6500d for every kilometre thereafter.

Bat Pagoda
This is one of the Mekong Delta's most unusual sights and has become a favourite stop-off for both foreign and domestic tourists. The Bat Pagoda (Chua Doi) is a large monastery com pound. Upon entering through an archway, you'll almost immediately hear the screeching of the large colony of resident fruit bats. There are thousands of these creatures hanging from the fruit trees. The largest bats weigh about 1kg and have a wingspan of about 1.5m.
Fruit bats make plenty of noise - in the morning the din is incredible (likewise the smell). The bats are not toilet trained, so watch out when standing under a tree, or bring an umbrella. In the evening the bats spread their wings and fly out to invade orchards all over the Mekong Delta, much to the consternation of farmers, who are known to trap the bats and eat them. Inside the monastery the creatures are protected and the bats seem to know this -no doubt this is why they stay.
The best times for visiting are early morning and at least an hour before sunset, when the bats are most active. Around dusk hundreds of bats swoop out of the trees to go foraging.
The monks are very friendly and don't ask for money, though it doesn't hurt to leave a donation. The pagoda is decorated with gilt Buddhas and murals paid for by over-seas Vietnamese contributors. In one room there's a life-size statue of the monk who was the former head of the complex. There's also a beautifully painted Khmer longboat here of the type used at the Oc Bom Boc Festival.
Behind the pagoda is an odd tomb painted with the image of a pig. It was erected in memory of a pig with five toenails (usually pigs have only four toenails). It died in 1996, but two other rare pigs with five toenails have survived and are being raised by the monks. These pigs are not for eating - they are pets.
There's a small restaurant just opposite the Bat Pagoda.
The Bat Pagoda is about 4km west of Soc Trang. You can catch a motorbike taxi or easily walk there in under an hour. About 3km out of town towards the pagoda the road splits into two - take the right fork and continue for 1km.
Xa Lon (Sa Lon) Pagoda
This magnificent, classic Khmer pagoda is 12km from Soc Trang, towards Ca Mau, on Hwy 1. The original wooden structure was built over 200 years ago. In 1923 it was completely rebuilt, but proved to be too small. From 1969 to 1985, the present-day large pagoda was slowly built as funds trickled in from donations. The ceramic tiles on the exterior of the pagoda are particularly stunning.
As at other pagodas, the monks lead an austere life. They eat breakfast at 6am and beg for contributions until 11 am, when they hold a one-hour worship. They eat again at noon and study in the afternoon - they do not eat dinner.
At present around 25 monks reside here. The pagoda also operates a school for the study of Buddhism and Sanskrit - the language of all original books about Buddhism.
My Phuoc Island
A 15km journey east of Soc Trang brings you to the Hau Giang River. From there it's a short boat ride to My Phuoc Island. It's an isolated spot very suitable for growing fruit. The local government tourist agency likes to bring foreigners here for tours of the orchards. You can do it yourself, though this is a little complicated since you'll need a motorbike to get to the river.

Perhaps the biggest drawcard of the delta is its colourful floating markets, which are on the banks of wide stretches of river. Most market folk begin early to avoid the daytime heat, so try to visit between 6am and 8am. The tides, however, are also a factor as bigger boats must often wait until the water is high enough for them to navigate.
Some of the smaller, rural floating markets are disappearing, largely because of improved roads and access to private and public transport. Many of the larger markets near urban areas, however, are still going strong.
Rural areas of Can Tho province, renowned for their durian, mangosteen and orange orchards, can easily be reached from Can Tho by boat or bicycle.
Cai Rang Floating Market
Just 6km from Can Tho in the direction of Soc Trang is Cai Rang, the biggest floating market in the Mekong Delta. There is a bridge here thai serves as a great vantage point lor photography. The market is best before 9am, although some vendors hang out until noon, it's less lively by then.
Cai Rang can be seen from the road, but getting there is far more interesting by boat. From the market area in Can Tho it takes about an hour by river, or you can drive So the Cau Dau Sau boat landing (by the Dau Sau Bridge), from where it takes only about 10 minutes to reach the market.
Phong Dien Floating Market
Perhaps the best floating market in the Mekong Delta, Phong Dien has fewer motorised craft and more stand-up rowing boats. It's less crowded than Cai Rang and there are far fewer tourists. The market is at its bustling best be tween 6am and Sam. It is 20km southwest of Can Tho and most get there by road.
It is theoretically possible to do a whirlwind boat trip here, visiting the small canals on the way and finishing back at the Cai Rang floating market. This journey should take approximately five hours return from Can Tho.
Phung Hiep Floating Market
Until recently, the small town of Phung Hiep was notable for its eerie snake market. In 1998, however, a national law banned the capture and sale of snakes in an effort to control the rapidly multiplying rat population (due to a relative absence of snakes), which had been devastating rice crops. Snake sellers through out the country are now forced to operate underground.
These days the cages that used to swell with cobras and pythons are empty, and Phung Hiep is now just a regular market. There is a small-scale floating market under the bridge and boats can be hired here for a tour along the river.
Phung Hiep is right on Hwy 1,35km from Can Tho in the direction of Soc Trang.
Stork Garden
On the road between Can Tho and Long Xuyen. Vuon Co (admission 2000d; 5am-6pm) is a 1.3-hectare stork sanctuary. It is a popular stop for group tours coming to view the thou sands of resident storks. There is a tall wooden viewing platform. The best times of day to see the birds are around dawn and dusk.
Vuon Co is in the Thot Not district, about 15km southeast of Long Xuyen. Look for a sign in the hamlet of Thoi An: 'Ap Von Hoa'; coming from Can Tho the sign is on the west side of the road, immediately alter a small bridge. It is a few kilometres off the main highway - reachable on foot within 30 minutes, or hire a motorbike taxi for about 5000d.

IDD code: ( + 84 ) 77 / pop 93,000
Lying just 8km from the Cambodian border, Ha Tien is on the Gulf of Thailand and has a vastly different feel from other delta settlements. All around the area are lovely, towering limestone formations, which support a network of caves, some of which have been turned into temples. Plantations of pepper trees cling to the hillsides, On a clear day, Phu Quoc Is-land is easily visible to the west. The town itself has a sleepy charm, with crumbling colonial villas and a colourful riverside market, It sees only a handful of visitors, who come to explore the unique sights out of town.
Ha Tien was a province of Cambodia until 1708. In the face of attacks by the Thais, the Khmer-appointed governor, a Chinese immigrant named Mac Cuu turned to the Vietnamese for protection and assistance, Mac Cuu thereafter governed tills area as a fiefdom under the protection of the Nguyen Lords. He was succeeded as ruler by his son, Mac Thien Tu-During the 18th century the area was invaded and pillaged several times by the Thais. Rach Gia and the southern tip of the Mekong Delta came under direct Nguyen rule in 1798.
During the Khmer Rouge regime, Cambodian forces repeatedly attacked the Vietnamese territory and massacred thousands of civilians here. The entire populations of Ha Tien and nearby villages (in fact, tens of thousands of people) fled their homes. Also during this period, areas north of Ha Tien (along the Cambodian border) were sown with mines and booby traps, which have yet to be cleared.
Though the govern merit has designated Ha lien a 'frontier economic zone', the border crossing here is not yet open to tourists. This may change in upcoming years. Check with travel agencies in Ha Tien.
Information
The post office Tell: 852190; 3 Ð To Chau; 7am-10pm) also has internet access for 4000d per hour.
There's an Agricultural Bank (Ngan Hang Nong Nhiep; 852 055; fax 851 888; 37 Đ Lam Son) near the market area.
Sights
MAC CUU FAMILY TOMBS
On a low ridge not far from town are the Mac Cuu Family Tombs (Lang Mac Cuu). They are known locally as Nui Lang, the Hill of the Tombs. Several dozen relatives of Mac Cuu are buried here in traditional Chinese tombs decorated with figures of dragon phoenixes, lions and guardians.
The largest tomb is that of Mac Cuu him-self; it was constructed in 1809 on the orders of Emperor Gia Long and is decorated with finely carved figures of Thanh Long (Green Dragon) and Bach Ho (While Tiger). The tomb of Mac Cuu’s first wife is Hanked by ragons and phoenixes. At the bottom of the ridge is a shrine dedicated to the Mac family.
TAM BAO PAGODA
Founded by Mac Cuu in 1730 is the Tam Bao Pagoda (Sac Tu Tam Bao Tu; 328 Ð Phuong Thanh; prayers 8-9am & 2-3pm). It is now home to several Buddhist nuns. In front of the pagoda is a statue of Quan The Am Bo Tat standing on a lotus blossom in the middle of a pond. Inside the sanctuary, the largest statue on the dais is of A Di Da, the Buddha of the Past. It is made of bronze, but has been painted. Outside the building are the tombs of 16 monks.
Near Tarn Bao Pagoda is a section of the city wall dating from the early 18th century.
PHU DUNG PAGODA
This pagoda (Phu Cu Am Tu; players 4-5am & 7-8pm) was founded in the mid- 18th century by Mac Thien Tich's wife, Nguyen Thi Xuan. It is now home to one monk.
In the middle of the main hall is a statue of nine dragons embracing a newly born Thich Ca Buddha. The most interesting statue on the main dais is a bronze Thich Ca Buddha from China. On the hillside behind the main hall are the tombs of Nguyen Thi Xuan and one of her female servants, neaiby are four monks' tombs.
Behind the main hall is a small temple, Dien Ngoc Hoang, dedicated to the Taoist Jade Ern peror. The figures inside arc of Ngoc Hoang;flanked by Nam Tao, the Taoist God of the Southern Palar Star and the God of Happiness (on the right); and Bac Dao, the Taoist God of the Northern Polar Star and the God of Longevity (on the left). The statues are made of papier-mache moulded ever bamboo frames.
To get to Phu Dung Pagoda, turn off Đ Phuong Thanh at No 374.
THACH DONG CAVE PAGODA
Also known as Chua Thanh Van, this is a sub terranean Buddhist temple 4km from town.
To the left of the entrance is the Stele of Hatred (Bia Cam Thu), which commemorates the massacre by the Khmer Rouge of 130 peo- pie here on 14 March 1978.
Several of the chambers contain funerary tablets and altars to Ngoc Hoang, Quan The Am Bo Tat and the two Buddhist monks who founded the temples of this pagoda. The wind here creates extraordinary sounds as it blows through the grotto's passageways. Openings in several branches of the cave afford views of nearby Cambodia.
ĐONG HO
The name translates as East Lake, but Dong Ho is not a lake but an inlet of the sea. The 'lake' is just cast of Ha Tien, and is bounded to the east by a chain of granite hills known as the Ngu Ho (Five Tigers) and to the west by the To Chan hills. Dong Ho is said to be most beautiful on nights when there is a full or almost-full moon. According to legend, on such nights fairies dance here.
HA TIEN MARKET
Ha Tien has an excellent market along the To Chau River. It's well worth your while to stop here - many of the goods are from Thailand and Cambodia, and prices are lower than in HCMC. Cigarette smuggling is particularly big business.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Phao Dai Hotel (Tell: 851849, r 80,000-200,000d). On a hill in the far southwest of town, the Phao Dai is a relatively quiet place. Air-con rooms have ocean views, and the best rooms open onto shared terraces. Facilities include massage, a karaoke bar and a restaurant.
Ngoc Yen Hotel (Tell: 952 953; fax 952 955; 12 Ð Khu Trung Tarn Thuong Mai; r 120,000-220,000d; This is good value with its newish feel and clean, modern rooms set with polished wood furniture. Some windows open only onto the corridor.
Bao Tam Hotel (Tell: 952 944; fax 952 945; 23 Ð Khu Trung Tarn Thuong Mai; r 140,000-170,000d; This friendly, new spot has tidy, nicely outfitted rooms with green tile floors. Upper-storey rooms have balconies. As elsewhere some rooms lack windows.
Tu Anh Hotel (Tell: 852 622; fax 951703; 170 Ð Mac Thien Tich; r 150,000-250,000d; With windows and air-conditioning in every room, Tu Anh is one of Ha Tien's best newcomers. It has clean and polished rooms and friendly service.Other budget choices:
Kieu Oanh Guesthouse (Tell: 852 748; 20 Đ To Chau; r 50,000-80,000d; A friendly, family-run place with battered rooms. Cold-water bathrooms. Sao Mai Hotel (Tell: 852 740; Đ Tran Cong An; r 80,000-150.000d; A nice, clean place south of the floating bridge. Ocean views from top-floor rooms.
MIDRANGE
Hai Van Hotel (Tell: 852 001; fax 851 685; 55 Đ Lam Son; r 70,000-220,000d). Hai Van offers a range of rooms from cheap and basic fan-cooled rooms (with cold-water bathrooms) to comfortably set rooms in the new wing with balconies. There's a lift.
Kim Du Hotel (Tell: 851 929; fax 852 119; 14 Đ Phuong Thanh; r120,000-200,000d; Rooms at this decent but ageing option have big windows and are in OK shape. The in-house restaurant is good. It has a lift.
Du Hung Hotel (Tell: 951 555; fax 852 267; 17A Đ Tran Hau; r 180,000-250,000d; Another new, good-value option with clean rooms and dark wood furniture. Lift available.
Hai Yen Hotel (Tell: 851580; fax 851889; 15 Đ To Chau; r 200,000-350,000d; Offers spotless rooms with colourful bedspreads and decorative ceilings. Some rooms lack windows; others (like room 517) have fine river views.
Ha Tien Hotel (Tell: 952 093; fax 951102; 368 Tran Hau; r 300,000-400,000d; Ha Tien's finest hotel has comfortable, carpeted rooms with dark wood furniture, though some rooms lack windows. An inviting, open-sided restaurant fronts the place.
Eating & Drinking
Ha Tien's speciality is an unusual variety of coconut that can only be found in Cambodia and this part of Vietnam. These coconuts contain no milk, but the delicate flesh is delicious. Restaurants all around the Ha Tien area serve the coconut flesh in a glass with ice and sugar,
Hai Van (Tell: 850 344; 4 Đ Tran Hau; mains 10,000-15,000d; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Dishes up good Vietnamese, Chinese and Western meals.
Xuan Thanh (Tell: 852197; 20 Đ Tran Hau; mains 15,000-40,000d; lunch & dinner) Set with chrome chairs opposite the market, this cheery place serves tasty plates of fish, shrimp and other Vietnamese fair.
Tu Anh (Tell: 852 622; 170 Đ Mac Thien Tich; mains 20,000-40,000d; breakfast, lunch & dinner) The restaurant of this decent hotel also serves excellent dishes, including delicious seafood with noodles.
Huong Bien (Tell: 852 072; 974 Đ To Chau; mains 20,000-30,000d) Another excellent eatery.
Thuy Tien (Tell: 851 828; Đ Dong Ho; coffee 3000d) For an iced coffee against the lakeside scenery, stop by this low-key cafe.
For livelier backdrop try the cates along the waterfront.
Getting There & Away
BOAT
Passenger terries dock at the ferry terminal, which is not far from the To Chau Hotel near the floating bridge. Daily ferries depart to Phu Quoc (55,000d, 8.30am), but these are worn, wooden boats that may not be seaworthy. It's wise to take a more reliable hydrofoil from Rach Gia.
BUS
Buses from HCMC to Ha Tien leave three times daily from the