South Central Coast

IDD Code: (+84) 58
Nha Trang has a split personality. One takes the form of a smaller Danang - a bustling Vietnamese city humming with commerce but blessed with access to a beautiful beach. The other is a Western resort town encompassing several blocks of hotels, tourist shops, bars and international restaurants. Entering this sheltered enclave you could be anywhere in the world, if it weren't for the constant hassling from xe om drivers, many of whom seem to moonlight as pimps and dealers. The city is indisputably beautiful, bordered by mountains, with the beach tracing an impressive long swoop along a bay dotted with islands. Topiary and modern sculpture dot the immaculately manicured foreshore. The only blight on the horizon is the Hollywood-style sign for the Vinpearl complex - an ugly scar dominating nearby Hon Tre Island. Nha Trang offers plenty to keep tourists occupied - from island-hopping boat trips and scuba diving, to mudbaths and historic sites. But the main attraction for most visitors is lounging around on deckchairs at a beach front bar and drinking cocktails in comfort.

Information

BOOKSHOPS
Short/s Cafe Bar (Tell: 524 057; 1E Đ Biet Thu) Carries secondhand books, mostly in English

INTERNET ACCESS
Nha Trang has dozens of designated internet cafes all over town, and you can also get online in many hotels and travellers’s cafes.

MEDICAL SERVICES
Pasteur Institute (Tell: 822 355; 10 ĐTran Phu )Offers medical consultations and vaccinations. See p286
MONEY
Vietcombank (Tell: 822 720; 17 Đ Quang Trung, Mon-Fri) changes travellers cheques and cash advances. There's another Vietcombank (Tell:524 500; 5 Đ Hung Vuong) which has an ATM, and also exchanges and travellers cheques. There is a handy Vietcombank ATM (4 D Ie Loi) outside the main post office and another Vietcombank ATM ( 60 Đ Tran Phu) outside the Que Huong Hotel.
POST: Main post office (Tell: 823 866; 4 Đ Le Loi; 6.30am-10pm) Post office branches 50 Đ Le Thanh Ton (Tell: 652 070; 09.7am-11pm); 1/29 Đ Tran Quang Khai (Tell: 522 099)

TRAVEL AGENCIES
Khanh Hoa Tours (Tell: 526 753; 10 Đ Tran Hung Dao) Offers varous tour programmes, including boat trips. Mama Linh's Boat Tours (Tell: 522 845; 23C D Biet Thu) Known for its boat tour,Mama Linh's can also arrange trips around the proving the highlands. Sinh Cafe (Tell: 524 329; 10 D Biet Thu) Offers bargain basement local tour as well as open-tour buses.

Dangers & Annoyances
In Nha Trang there are many ways far your money to part company. We'veheard re- ports of thefts on the beach (pickpockets,and jewellery disappearing during an embrace), during massages (a third person sneaks into the room and removes money from clothes) and from hotel rooms (none of the ones listed in this hook, but you should still be cautious). Don't carry loo much on you, andl consider leaving surplus cash at the hotel reception. That way the hotel is responsible if it goes missing, although even this may not protect you from unscrupulous operators. At tourist sites unobservant foreigners may be overcharged - check the price on pre-printed tickets, check your change and don't pay more than a 2000 dong for bicycle parking. A persistent scam exists at the Long Son Pagoda, where you will be approached by children with pre-printed name badges (and occasionally older people) claiming to work for the monks. After showing you around the pagoda, whether invited to or not, they will then demand money 'for the monks' or, if that fails, insist that you buy postcards for 100,000d. The best course of action is to firmly let them know you don't require their services when they first appear. If they persist, tell them that you know they don't work for the monks and you're not about to give them any money - this should ensure a quick disappearance. If you want to give money towards the monks and upkeep of the complex, leave it in the donation boxes as you would in any other pagoda.

Sights

NHA TRANG BEACH

The clear turquoise waters of Nha Trang's 6km beach are best enjoyed during the dry season -from June to early October. During heavy rains, run off from the rivers at each end of the beach flows into the bay, gradually turning it a murky brown. Most of the year, however, the water is as it appears in the tourist brochures. Even in the wettest months, rain usually falls only at night or in the morning. The best beach weather is generally before 1pm; the afternoon sea breezes can make things unpleasant until the wind dies back down around 8pm. Beach chairs are available for rent where you can sit and enjoy the drinks, light food or massages that the beach vendors have on offer. About the only time you'll need to move is to use the toilet or when the tide comes up. The two most popular lounging spots are the Sailing Club and Louisiane Brewhouse .